Friday, January 20, 2006

Gotcha, predator!

We've bought a fresh squid in a supermarket recently - you know, from the squidgy bunch who were having a rest on a big pile of ice in the fish department. I am not a big food shopper or a successful chooser of fresh products, but turns out you gotta pick the fresh ones judging by their smell. Both rejected ones and the lucky selected one smelled kinda same to me, but again, who am I to judge.

The cool thing happened when we dissected him - in his belly there were three little fishes, in the state that lets me judge the predator was stopped in his rapacious seafaring tracks right after his lunch and put to cool it off on the heap of ice soon thereafter.

I had always (ignorantly as it turns out) thought squid are kind of vegetarians and eat plankton or something, and the predatory streaks in their behavior for some strange reason justified to me the purchase of the carnivorous beast even more. Anyhow, it was cooked, dressed, salted and devoured. Bon appetite to those about to feast on whatever's sent to you today :)Pic: The boiled creophagist clamped between a pair of chopsticks is about to be sliced up with my sparkling machete

Thursday, January 19, 2006

Now how 'bout that!

Heh, I rememer in that movie Private Parts about and with Howard Stern, he and his wife were in a Chinese restaurant, and a Chinese waiter comes up to him and says something like 'Don't make fun of the Chinese people, make funny' - I am surely not citing that right, but the whole idea appeals to me in the sense that it's not an evil laugh, just seeing funny things around me... Hey, I'll laugh at my own bloopers... (don't be too hard on me though;)
Anyhow, ain't you gonna be a bit suspicious when somebody grabs a cup out of this pack and offers you a drink? Happened to me. Weird feeling I tell ya) I mean, looking at the saliva coming out of the mouth of that hyped star-shaped dude on the package.

Wednesday, January 18, 2006

Pre-Spring Festival Update

I am free as a wind. To the best of my abilities that is. The semester is finished. Almost the whole school moved to their hometowns to celebrate the Chinese New Year (The Spring Festival). The campus is unbelievably deserted and that is making me happy. Being a little sick I am staying home but plan to travel soon. Should be ashamed of myself getting up at 1PM, spending all the day in front of the computer, but feeling happy about that. Sweet doing nothing : )
What a beautiful afternoon that was today! Sunshine and warmth. Outside under the sun it is really warmer than inside.
My laundry drying out on the balcony was dry already this afternoon, but I decided to give it some more time. With the dusk, seeing the crawling fog form the sea I visited my laundry and found out it is all damp now. Oh well. All's for the better. Had to leave it 'drying out' again. You have to experience the ugliness of non-action first-hand to become a better person : )
But this period of inactivity gives me a chance to enrich my blog. I have tons of stories to tell from my past in China, and though they will not be in a 'diary-like' format, with the dates jumping like fawns on the forest hills, I will try to give an account of my experiences here, spiced up with a good measure of cultural shocks and smaller shocklets.

Story #1 - My trip to Shanghai for the Russian Orthodox Christmas.

Right from the Russian Consulate you can have this magnificent view of the Pudong District - with the signs indicating my former visits to Shanghai : )



In the afternoon I made a raid on the open-air market where I purchased a winter jacket and a backpack with wheels - my long-time dream.
I also witnessed a nice picture this country abounds in, and though to me now it is nothing but the routine, some of my friends over the oceans might find this amusing:
After the market I had a nice dinner in a restaurant named ''Little Country''. It is actually a high-class restaurant, not without a hue of 'cultural' quirks, and with an exquisite menu, full of that special Chinese flavor I like so much - seriously - both linguistically and gastronomically.

I am not making a joke here, that is a super tasty and cool place to have a meal in. It was a kind of a tourture (pleasant in a way as it was) trying to decide what I want to eat because my wolfy eyes were running insatiably through the countless lines of various delicacies, having a hard time hooking on to something because any next thing seemed to be way more appealing. They had a huge choice of 'hot pots' - mutton, rabbit, 'deer'... At first I wanted to try the rabbit hot pot, but later thought it's more 'refined' to try venison. Turned out it's a huge serving unconquerable for one person, so the waiter talked me into having mutton.
A funny cultural thing I want to mention here is that when the xiaojie (小姐- waitress) was bringing me the venison, her thumb touched a piece of heavily gravied meat - openly and loudly with no way for me NOT to see it, - and her behavior was something I often see in this country - every time with changing feelings (from anger on my earlier stages here to now smile) - the naive and sly method to squeeze through life. She stuck her thumb out, made a swoosh over the dishes, surreptitiously cleaned it on the table cloth under the table, and picked a pen form her apron - all this in one graceful motion - too transparent and at the same time ingenious. You know, with that childish air - ''no one saw, I hardly saw myself so it kinda not happened''.

Other things that caught my attention on that trip are:

A self-sufficient guy in the Shanghai subway, who turned heads and drew smiles form the Shanghainese who are apparently not too much surprised at many weird things - entered a car, unfolded a chair and fell asleep right there. A pretty clever move, carrying a folding chair around, remembering how people here rush and push trying to run into the train first and take a seat.

A pedestrian crossing near the Shanghai Railway Station - there are traffic light there, but the crowd too eager to cross the street no matter which light is on required mentors who herded them - a not infrequent picture at crossings here. This I see in many cities, looks like the people here live in another dimension, not respecting rules and regulations, even though physically living in the world where the tangible artifacts of those regulations exist - in the form of meaningless decorations like the traffic lights and road markings. But the traffic workers near the Train Station took a more drastic step and implemented a useful tool - a long cord with red flags on it to pen off the pushing crowd of newly arrived indigenous folks fresh off a train. They unraveled it with the red light and coiled it up when the green came back on. You gotta do what you gotta do. (It's not very clear in the picture but you can still see the line if you look real close - sorry had no chance to have another go at the paparazzi thing).

The night was spent in a sauna which is a special topic altogether, with massage and shower and hot rooms and swimming pools - sorry there are no snapshots of the interior, but that's what the hall looks like

This thing is really big here, it's like a family outing - kids walking with mothers in those little pajamas, and rooms where they can play...
And this is the facade.

On the way to the sauna I couldn't help stealing the snapshots of Shanghai's urban beauty and here are the night views.

Thursday, January 05, 2006

My dogs are kickin' ... ass! Or tap-dancing on the stone floor

Here's a message I received some time ago from a person in our University's Foreign Affairs Office.

----- Original Message -----
From: "...闽丽" <
mailto:xxxxx@hotmail.com>
To: serge.gavenko @ mail.ru
Subject: A little noisy

> Hi sergy,
>
> I would like to tell you that the person who lives at your
> downstairs, she said you walks
> all the time stepping hard. Is it possible for you walks
> quietly?
>
> Thank you.
>
> Regards,
>
> L<...>ly
>

I was flabbergasted and the deafening red heat of shame and new reality rushed up into my face... But then I smiled and let it go 'coz...

Now stop your caustic remarks about me eating too much and moving too little. "Yeah, yeah, Serge, that fat bastard, putting on weight like a hippo - now people have no choice but to complain about his fat @$$ to higher offices". Nothing of the kind. Yeah, I am stompin' and I am hompin'. But that's not the case. I need to tell ya my floor is made of stone - here in Fujian wood is expensive. And acoustic insulation is not that great. But the heroes of our todays's little story are right here -



I bought these little babies when traveling in Hainan - a beautiful island - Chinese Hawaii as it is called. I'd brought my cool wooden slippers back and tap-danced over the heads of my downstairs' neighbors - not being aware of this till that heart-breaking letter came around. Now I naturally respect the deserved rest of my neighbors and walk as loud as a mouse on a chilly night through a dark barn.

But what is interesting in this whole story - am I weird or something? - but I still think that a good neighbor could come up 20 stairs and talk rather than go all the way across the campus to the administrative building to complain. Duh, I looked like a shuffling unbearable bumpkin or something to these people. Hehe. I talked to the woman who lives 'at my downstairs' (like a good neighbor), and the answer was that 'since we had not been introduced (that's a proper high-class English society here) and it had not been a very big problem, so...' (she stopped at this 'so' probably meaning it's self-explanatory from here since it's quite natural to resolve these small household problems via the Foreign Affairs Office).

I am probably too hard on that lady anyhow, maybe I do look unapproachable and hard to deal with, or it's not easy for some people to deal with new folks or ...whatever. Just a funny thing about my wooden slippers. Tapping on the hard stone floor. I had a healthy laugh. Hope you smiled too.

Во блин нафиг повезло

About a Russian superstition, so I guess the cultural constants gotta stay within the framework of the corresponding signs. Just a fluttering of emotion, not a cultural linguistic analysis - so it's in Russian : )
Тока по-русски можно написать. Любят у нас тут в универе обрубать воду без предупреждения. На прошлой неделе вырубили, сегодня вот опять квечеру. Иду на вечерний урок/просмотр кинокартины в честь последнего занятия семестра - вода было. Иду обратно - у столовой стоит очередь девчонок с ведерками. Натренированное шестое чувство стало подсказывать, что пора чуять неладное. Да - так и есть - отключили, изверги. Как известно, иностранные шпециалисты живут в так называемой Секции "А" - это почитай 11 общаг и все для девичьего полу. Таким макаром, к единственно действующей точке подачи воды стремится поток особей женского пола с пустыми ведрами. Так вот пока я шел наперекор течению девиц, подумал - WTF, чего это такое то, напрягся весь как лампочка еликтричества. Пора бросать это пассивное верование в приметы (это типа «вроде не веришь, а вдруг») - надо переключаться на активное верование в то, что все это - пустые предрассудки. Нечего нервы портить. У нас 3 тысячи девок в ентой секции "А" проживает, нихрена себе заморочка - повстречать хотя бы часть с пустыми ведрами. А то видел, еще некоторые по два ведра несут. Несучки такие. : )

New Year Chinese-style on Xiamen's Gulangyu


Gulangyu is an island near Xiamen (which in turn is a bigger island itself). It's a pretty cool little place, and every time I go there I discover something new - culture-wise and geography-wise. It looks like a little fairy-tale land, with narrow winding streets and remnants of European mansions - leftovers from the concession times. Not thinking too long about where to meet the dawn of the New Year, my friend and I decidedly mounted a bus and in 1.5 hours were in Amoy (another name for Xiamen),

then took a ferry to the Gulangyu island and there we were, looking for a nice hotel to house a small New Year party. After searching through the dark and beautiful streets of Gulangyu for an hour we stumbled upon a very nice place called The Bay View Inn (228RMB (US$28.5) per night - I very rarely pay THAT much for a hotel in China).
We had no view of the bay (neither did any other rooms) - hopefully the second and third floors which were under construction will provide the
justification for this name. But our windows looked on a busy central street. Now - the beauty of the whole thing is that on Gulangyu any motor-driven vehicles are prohibited, so are bicycles - making this little central street a really nice venue.

The 31st of December we spent frolicking around malls and small shops, eating tasty things and buying take-outs for our New Year hotel party for two. Noteworthy are such events of the day as
- rush-stomping up a down-going escalator in a mall.


- a visit to a Jackie Chan store with unbelievably high prices - which undermined my good feelings towards the Australian star; we saw a t-shirt signed by him, and various clothes items with price tags featuring figures usually 10 times higher than those you find on similar quality/design items but with different brand names. I would have thought of buying something had he sewn it himself, but label-flashing is not for us, simple folks as we are.

(To tell the truth this very picture was taken about half a year ago, but also in Xiamen and near another Jacky Chan store - he got it pretty much covered around this part of the world.)

- eating unbelievably tasty noodles in a small restaurant. I made 4 trips to that place in 2 days because of the delicious stuff.

- waiting in another even smaller eatery while the cook was making our holiday noodles and veggies according to our several-times-changing order, and if he didn't have the ingredients his wife would rush out of the shop to buy things like mushrooms and cauliflower from a hawker, who was standing right outside for just the occasion with two enormous baskets and a shoulder-yoke.


The transformation of the calendar dates was greeted on a deserted beach/embankment under a huge tree, illuminated with stars and lights from distant streetlamps against the acoustic background of murmuring waves, every now and then splashing into the rocks. This unbearably romantic atmosphere was spiced up with the surprisingly-not-so-cold-for-the-time-of-year East China Sea itself, which whispered to me tenderly - Serge, Serge, come into me, meet the New Year within my welcoming waves... - the exhortations being cut abruptly and jealously by my companion. I guess that's simple because she can't swim, that's all. But romantic welcoming of the New Year did happen alright. I was even allowed to wet my feet in this alluring ocean's affiliate. Was pretty bearable. But not like in the summer, you know.

The walk back to the hotel was truly amazing. The empty streets were lighted magically, with little flags and Christmas lights over the crooked pavements, two-storeyed buildings from two centuries ago, toy houses with Christmas trees and real-size Santa Clauses, all created a feeling of something unreal and unbearably beautiful.

One half of us (and that was not me) dared to jump over the small fence of a toy composition "Santa and his snow-clad house" and amicably patted Santa on the shoulder like he was her old buddy. It didn't startle me much (but it did scare her of course) after Santa jerked and started moving his hips in a slow dance to the sweet Christmas song which reverberated with excellent acoustics through the cobble-stone streets, his beard and white hair swaying along with his movements. It was a fairy-tale feeling, as we walked away from the dancing Santa, the music imbuing through the deserted lane's windows. Luckily nobody shouted from them, and this only added up to the feeling of calm joy. It's funny though that we were about the only people who celebrated the beginning of the new year; for the majority of the Chinese it's not an event at all.








The first day of January was spent discovering new places on the island. We saw old mansions behind wrought gates, with turrets and even people living in some.




One even had something like a squash or a pumpkin precariously growing right above the gate.

We saw a film crew shooting a flick in one of the streets, we had even found a hotel where they all stayed, thus making it difficult for us a day before to find an accommodation. An interesting thing walking on Gulangyu - everywhere you can see dozens of cats walking on their own anywhere they like. Especially it's amazing in the night, when in every little lane you turn to, there is a cat looking at you. But the most interesting thing is that the majority of the cats we saw were white ones; the second place held purely black ones, and it was only about twice that we noticed 'normal' multi-colored common cats. Do they breed them on purpose or is it a natural taste of the felines for the likes of themselves, since they seem to be free as a wind on those streets?

White cats against a white wall. Almost after Polenov.

A cool case of the Chinese reality we present here - strange as it seems, there was a truck in one of the streets in Gulangyu - probably working graveyard shifts for locals away from central streets - the driver was having his feet-above-the-heart exercise sleeping in the daytime.

And it was a pretty hot New Year here in South China,

nothing like the last one:

So, Happy New Year everyone! Tell me how you celebrated.